Aunt Mary's is named for Mary Atkinson, who seems to have developed this cultivar in or around 1850, carried it until the start of the 20th century, then given to her nephew, Lee R. Bonnewitz. I find this cultivar is good in backyards, growing 6 to 9 inch ears, covered with white kernels of 12 to 14 or 8 to 10 rows.
I'm offering 3 sizes:
|
Aunt Mary’s Sweet Corn, is said to have come from a single farm in Darby Plains (in Prairie Township), Ohio, just outside the west outerbelt of Columbus. It is believed to have been bred there for over 100 years, leading to speculation that it may have originally been grown by Native Americans.
I don't have personal experience with the resistance of this corn, but it is reported to be resistant to pests. There was a time when this corn was grown for the commercial seed and canning industry.
Maize is a hot weather gross feeder, so needs a lot of nitrogen, other nutrients, and warm temperatures. For Stowell's Evergreen, soil temperatures need to be above 60°F (16°C), and the season 85 to 90 days long. Research at Michigan State University showed that maize uses a tiny 6% of its total nitrogen in its first month, 25% in the second stage or development of the tassels, 25% during pollination, and the remaining 39% as the ears are developing. The garden soil should be thoroughly enriched. High nitrogen, organic, fertilizers include:
Composts are generally lower in nutrients, but provide very necessary Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphorus as well as micronutrients, soil structure, and scaffolding for healthy soil organisms. It's important to remember to "feed the soil, not the plant," as it's an ecology that all the organisms share toward a healthy commonwealth, chemical fertilizers only being available when they've been applied and are soon leached out by the elements.
Sweet Corn and all maizes should be planted in blocks rather than rows. You may find bees collecting some pollen from the tassels, but all grasses are wind pollinated. If planted in rows, the corn will possibly not get enough pollen to the silks, and as a result you will end up with spotty kernels on the cob.
Stowell's Evergreen does well at a spacing of 8 inches (200 mm) between plants, and I try to pack as many plants in a block as is possible. I usually plant 3 seeds then 4 seeds in alternating rows so the spacing is on the diagonal as in the diagram above left. No-till gardening means not disturbing the soil, so the seeds are first soaked overnight, then laid directly on the soil and covered with an inch (25 mm) of finished compost and watered in well. Additional soil heaped around the roots as the plants grow higher will help to sturdy them as they reach higher toward the sky.
Maizes also have shallow root systems that do NOT like to be disturbed. To avoid tearing the shallow root systems out, corn should be mulched with at least 6 inches (150 mm) of organic mulches instead of weeding. When plants are 10 inches high (250 mm) apply the mulch around the base of the plants, being careful to not crush them. My favorite is dried Grass clippings I've collected from mowing. I place them in the sunshine, turn them with a rake several times a day for around 3 days, so it takes a little luck and some attention to the weather reports. Other, lower nitrogen, mulches are also successful, but in a low nutrient situation can actually rob the soil, and consequently the plants, of nitrogen to decompose the low nitrogen organic material. This is called Nitrogen Immobilization. The nitrogen is there, but not usable to the plants or other soil organisms. Soil should be placed at the base of the plants as they grow, to sturdy them from wind. As soils are built up around the base of the plants, the 6 inches of mulch needs to be maintained on top of it.
|
|
Sweet Corn and all maizes should be planted in blocks rather than rows. You may find bees collecting some pollen from the tassels, but all grasses are wind pollinated. If planted in rows, the corn will possibly not get enough pollen to the silks, and as a result you will end up with spotty kernels on the cob.
Stowell's Evergreen does well at a spacing of 8 inches (200 mm) between plants, and I try to pack as many plants in a block as is possible. I usually plant 3 seeds then 4 seeds in alternating rows so the spacing is on the diagonal as in the diagram above left. No-till gardening means not disturbing the soil, so the seeds are first soaked overnight, then laid directly on the soil and covered with an inch (25 mm) of finished compost and watered in well. Additional soil heaped around the roots as the plants grow higher will help to sturdy them as they reach higher toward the sky.
Maizes also have shallow root systems that do NOT like to be disturbed. To avoid tearing the shallow root systems out, corn should be mulched with at least 6 inches (150 mm) of organic mulches instead of weeding. When plants are 10 inches high (250 mm) apply the mulch around the base of the plants, being careful to not crush them. My favorite is dried Grass clippings I've collected from mowing. I place them in the sunshine, turn them with a rake several times a day for around 3 days, so it takes a little luck and some attention to the weather reports. Other, lower nitrogen, mulches are also successful, but in a low nutrient situation can actually rob the soil, and consequently the plants, of nitrogen to decompose the low nitrogen organic material. This is called Nitrogen Immobilization. The nitrogen is there, but not usable to the plants or other soil organisms. Soil should be placed at the base of the plants as they grow, to sturdy them from wind. As soils are built up around the base of the plants, the 6 inches of mulch needs to be maintained on top of it.
